32/36 Weber problems

[baldo]

By the way, plugging something up does not mean run a hose from one opening to another one. That is bypassing it. Get a lil piece of hose and put a screw in it or something to plug it up. They sell caps to block thing up. Or you can tie a knot if the hose is long and use the two ends. By plugging it means nothing is coming in, out or usable. For example, the sensor on the block. It has 4 nipples . One is plugged, then you plugged another one but ran one hose from the remaining two to each other. Do you get what Im saying?

[toyotero2dend]

Sounds like its sucking lots of air and lil fuel,you also need to check the ign.timing.

[im2bad4ya]

Only one of the top jets has a number, 145. The carb came off another running 3TC so I don't think the jets are the wrong size. But I'll try anything just to get it going. I doubt it's the fuel pump since it worked before I switched the carburetor. Before I buy the fuel pump (I hate throwing money at the problem without knowing for sure) I'm going to try going back to the stock carb and see if it works.

Also if the carb is sucking excess air, is there a screw or valve for me to adjust to minimize that? Something similar to a throttle body that has an IAC screw?

With regards to timing, it's advanced all the way, the more I retard it, the slower it runs until it stalls out, won't even start with timing at or below 0 degrees.

[baldo]

Like I told you, the same carb can run for running cars either stock or making 1000 HP. Now stock or 1000 hp, they are both running cars. Now, do you think you will use the same jets for both cars? I never got an answer to this either when I asked if the guy had a cam in the car or was it stock also.
Dude we are trying to help you but I get the feeling you are just trying to fix the problem on your own. You can only read a 145 jet...... ok there are 2 jets. Is it the left one or right one looking at the carb on the car? Have you checked the gas jets like I asked you twice? You made sure the float is not sticking? You removed the big nut and made sure its clean? Did you PLUG everything you dont need correctly? Did you check the timing? All this that Im telling you will not make the car run if its not done and if you are 100% sure its not the pump.
Another scary problem you just mentioned, "timing" its advanced all the way or wont start at or below 0 degrees? Timing for 3tc is -7 degrees. Racing engines retard the timing to start the car because its easier. I have two question now, how advanced its all the way and how are you checking this? If the more you retard it where its supposed to be and the engine dies, then the carb is not tuned to your car. If thats the problem there are 2 screws to play with. The main one (since you dont have butterflies) is the one next to the throttle cable. That is to increase or decrease the engine speed. Then when you get to the right timing you play with the second screw located below a lil to the right of the speed screw I just told you about. This controls how much fuel you get at idle. Right is lean, left if rich. Too lean and it will die, too rich its will die. You want to be half way. BUT before ALL this you need to do everything above.

[Teun]

Chiming in since this is my old setup.

Recently overhauled 32/36 with no choke linkage.

Ran on a low mileage 2T, with no other mods. Jetting is done according to the jetting specified on this forum for "very healty 2Tc".

Ran great when removed about a month ago.
setup was half a turn up from the baseline.

[im2bad4ya]

I FIXED IT!

Just a disclaimer, I got the car as is, so I have to work with what I have as it's the condition I got it in.

After checking my timing again, I realized that the disty was at full retard, not advance like I thought, and even then it was only at -3 degrees. Advancing it made it go past 0 to the point that it stalled. So I took out the disty and tried to angle the pin the opposite direction and that didn't even make the car turn on so I put it back the way it was. That's when I checked the wires going from the coil to the disty...


It's not the OEM plug and apparently I had the wires reversed.




After switching them over the car runs and stays on, now it just needs a tune. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I'm just so glad I got this going now.





Just a quick tuning question. With the old setup, my timing was -20 at idle, like you see in the picture.


Since I'm automatic and don't race or anything, I'd want more low and mid rpm power than higher rpm range. Should I set the timing different or leave it as is?