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montrealte31 wrote:Hi,
Should i be alright to travel on the street?
This is my big concern while i still have my plates.

thanks

Pier

Pier the street is exactly where this beast belongs!

Just don't boost it up until you have an ignition retard strategy in place. Locked timing and set at the total advance needed under boost will suffice if you simply MUST boost it up however it does make for a pretty poor responding engine off boost!

Cheers,
Jason

montrealte31 wrote:Is the boost timing master is fine

or it would be better to buy the

6 BTM

thanks for the appreciated help!

The Boost Timing Master ( not the 6 BTM) cannot be used by itself and has to be used with an ignition box but per the instructions : The PN 8762 allows you to set the amount of ignition retard as well as when the retard begins, both in relation to the amount of boost being produced.
The distributor does not need to be locked either for both units
Going with the 8762 and keeping your 6AL box to work with it would be the better bet i my book over the 6 BTM, just to get away from the retarding ignition as soon as 1psi of boost is registered like Jason mentioned he experienced

Or you can do like i did due to JASON's encouragement and advice and buy the MSD 6530 digital programmable unit. You will need to lock your distributor for this one and also get a map sensor and a laptop!

Why wouldn't you convert to f/i? its easy to do and the best way to tune. I love the crank trigger for its precise timing and control. You not need to worry about timing change slop and the movement of timing which makes it possible to blow up engines. Just my 2 cents...

mikealike wrote:Why wouldn't you convert to f/i? its easy to do and the best way to tune. I love the crank trigger for its precise timing and control. You not need to worry about timing change slop and the movement of timing which makes it possible to blow up engines. Just my 2 cents...

Check this conversion you won't might worry about the precise ??