DIY Leaf Spring Lowering Blocks!
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 8:23 pm
Post author is Sunray,!
I've seen a lot of people wondering what blocks might fit and what things to look out for. Obviously this applies mostly to te27/21/28 as they are all rear leafs. Hopefully this helps a bit but I'll keep it very quick and to the point.The first thing you need to do is decide how much you are lowering your car. This amount will correspond to the thickness of blocks you will need and also how much longer your new u-bolts will need to be. I won't get into u-bolts here: save yourself the throuble and go to a spring shop with your car, explain your desires, and have them make up 4 new u-bolts. For this lowering I chose 2 blocks. For the old TE cars you need a block 5 inches long, 2.5 inches wide, and for my 2 inch lower-2 inches thick!
notice I have gotten ahead of myself here. I drilled a 13/16" hole in the center of each block. This is about 21mm. This is because the rear axle housing normally has a locating hole that corresponds to a metal and rubber pin on the top of the leaf stack. It allows the u-bolts to only hold the car up and not have to contend with lateral forces. To find the center of the blocks scribe two lines, one from each corner to corner then center punch the intersection. If you don't have access to a good drill press and bit then take it to a shop to do.Now that we have our locating holes for the leaf stack we must consider making locating pins for the blocks to meet the axle housing. In the interest of cheap, I went to the hardware store and picked up two male ended 1/2 inch; X 2 inch; pipe adapters made of mild steel. Don't fret about the weird plumbimg dimensions, they are very close in outer diameter to the 13/16 holes we cut.
Next using a simple bench grinder and a hacksaw I cut about 5mm off one end and ground the outside of the fitting to a slight interence fit with the 13/16; hole. Don't worry about being perfect-it really can be a rough job and will function fine.
Use the bench grinder to finish it by making total length no more than 42mm.
Again perfection we do not need.Next I press the pins into the blocks threaded end first.
Now DO NOT press them all the way in, instead leave them protruding about 4mm. This should fit the axle housing perches nicely ensuring that the pins are not resting against the axle tubes.
Here is a picture of the bottom afterwards. Note there is enough room for the leaf locater to fit inside.
Now all thats left is to test fit them, install your u-bolts and voila! Now you should be able to get the rear stance you always wanted but cheaper. Hope this helps!
I've seen a lot of people wondering what blocks might fit and what things to look out for. Obviously this applies mostly to te27/21/28 as they are all rear leafs. Hopefully this helps a bit but I'll keep it very quick and to the point.The first thing you need to do is decide how much you are lowering your car. This amount will correspond to the thickness of blocks you will need and also how much longer your new u-bolts will need to be. I won't get into u-bolts here: save yourself the throuble and go to a spring shop with your car, explain your desires, and have them make up 4 new u-bolts. For this lowering I chose 2 blocks. For the old TE cars you need a block 5 inches long, 2.5 inches wide, and for my 2 inch lower-2 inches thick!
notice I have gotten ahead of myself here. I drilled a 13/16" hole in the center of each block. This is about 21mm. This is because the rear axle housing normally has a locating hole that corresponds to a metal and rubber pin on the top of the leaf stack. It allows the u-bolts to only hold the car up and not have to contend with lateral forces. To find the center of the blocks scribe two lines, one from each corner to corner then center punch the intersection. If you don't have access to a good drill press and bit then take it to a shop to do.Now that we have our locating holes for the leaf stack we must consider making locating pins for the blocks to meet the axle housing. In the interest of cheap, I went to the hardware store and picked up two male ended 1/2 inch; X 2 inch; pipe adapters made of mild steel. Don't fret about the weird plumbimg dimensions, they are very close in outer diameter to the 13/16 holes we cut.
Next using a simple bench grinder and a hacksaw I cut about 5mm off one end and ground the outside of the fitting to a slight interence fit with the 13/16; hole. Don't worry about being perfect-it really can be a rough job and will function fine.
Use the bench grinder to finish it by making total length no more than 42mm.
Again perfection we do not need.Next I press the pins into the blocks threaded end first.
Now DO NOT press them all the way in, instead leave them protruding about 4mm. This should fit the axle housing perches nicely ensuring that the pins are not resting against the axle tubes.
Here is a picture of the bottom afterwards. Note there is enough room for the leaf locater to fit inside.
Now all thats left is to test fit them, install your u-bolts and voila! Now you should be able to get the rear stance you always wanted but cheaper. Hope this helps!
