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Whos swapped out their axle with something beefier and what did you put in?don't think My lil 32 year old rear end would stand much real abuse. Was thinking about the gts 6.7, yota 7.5,8, ford 9in, 8.8, there's a couple diff possibilities going on through my head

It all depends how much work you want to put into it. GTS swap is pretty straight forward. Anything else is going to need shortening and custom axles. The question is how much power you going to make.

Mazota TE51 wrote:It all depends how much work you want to put into it. GTS swap is pretty straight forward. Anything else is going to need shortening and custom axles. The question is how much power you going to make.

and how much are you willing to spend......

Found a guy that has an 85 celica for part out. He says he still has the rear end. Would this be an upgrade to the current sr5 rearend? Anyone know if its bolt on?

Hey osrolla,

I found great luck with a rear end pulled from a 2WD S-10 (4WD is wider).

It's referred to as a GM 10 bolt, or 7.5, or 7.6, or it's true dimension, 7.625. There are a ton of factory and aftermarket LSDs available for $200-600 (Gov-lock style is not preferred, and later Torsen could use a higher torque bias for our light cars - I can still single track RH wheel on RH turn hard accel- prob go with Eaton or Auburn) and a used axle alone (with open diff) will go for $150-250. They are super available, used from late 80's to early/mid 2000's. The earlier are 26 spline, later 28 spline.

Best news is the 2WD axles do not need shortened. They are within a half inch or so WMS to WMS.

Spring perches are same pitch as corolla. I think I needed 6deg wedges (off-road truck places sell for $35) to get stub at right angle for my 82 wagon with an EcoTec engine/trans.

Tough part is axle shafts. I assume you'd like to keep the 4x4.5 of corolla and full custom axles are $300-500 I think. I chose to modify the OEs. BTW you cannot weld on them due to high silicon content or something. This is what I did:

Turned outside of axle flange to clear inside of early 90's Nissan Altima disk (which I got from picknpull for $80 with calipers/hoses, these have factory corolla pattern), lasered 1/4" steel plate with undersized holes in corolla pattern and used this to transfer punch the correct pattern on axle flange. Hand drilled pattern through holes on axle flange. Tapped lasered plate and then used this as a sort of nut-plate by running loctited SHCS of factory lug size/pitch (tough to find, Call Parkrose Hardware in Portland OR) through back of drilled axle flange, sandwiching the axle flange it between the head of the bolt and the lasered/threaded plate. Slip rotors over this and you're ready to install the wheels. I lasered custom caliper brackets from 1/2" material and they align the factory Altima caliper very closely - needed a 0.060" shim I believe. I used factory Toy master cylinder and brake feel is great.

-Justin

rolla_rage wrote:Hey osrolla,

I found great luck with a rear end pulled from a 2WD S-10 (4WD is wider).

It's referred to as a GM 10 bolt, or 7.5, or 7.6, or it's true dimension, 7.625. There are a ton of factory and aftermarket LSDs available for $200-600 (Gov-lock style is not preferred, and later Torsen could use a higher torque bias for our light cars - I can still single track RH wheel on RH turn hard accel- prob go with Eaton or Auburn) and a used axle alone (with open diff) will go for $150-250. They are super available, used from late 80's to early/mid 2000's. The earlier are 26 spline, later 28 spline.

Best news is the 2WD axles do not need shortened. They are within a half inch or so WMS to WMS.

Spring perches are same pitch as corolla. I think I needed 6deg wedges (off-road truck places sell for $35) to get stub at right angle for my 82 wagon with an EcoTec engine/trans.

Tough part is axle shafts. I assume you'd like to keep the 4x4.5 of corolla and full custom axles are $300-500 I think. I chose to modify the OEs. BTW you cannot weld on them due to high silicon content or something. This is what I did:

Turned outside of axle flange to clear inside of early 90's Nissan Altima disk (which I got from picknpull for $80 with calipers/hoses, these have factory corolla pattern), lasered 1/4" steel plate with undersized holes in corolla pattern and used this to transfer punch the correct pattern on axle flange. Hand drilled pattern through holes on axle flange. Tapped lasered plate and then used this as a sort of nut-plate by running loctited SHCS of factory lug size/pitch (tough to find, Call Parkrose Hardware in Portland OR) through back of drilled axle flange, sandwiching the axle flange it between the head of the bolt and the lasered/threaded plate. Slip rotors over this and you're ready to install the wheels. I lasered custom caliper brackets from 1/2" material and they align the factory Altima caliper very closely - needed a 0.060" shim I believe. I used factory Toy master cylinder and brake feel is great.

-Justin

Very good info here. The only scary part for me is modifying the axle shafts. Any pics of the process or final product?

I have a KE30 (TE31) and installed a Chevy 10 bolt from a '95 S10 with the 6 degree shims and the torsen out of a 2000 Camaro SS. It wasn't difficult to get the axles converted to the Toyota 4 lug pattern. I sent the axles and drums to Moser and the turnaround time was great. It is cheaper than shortening a rearend, but it is still pricey when you add it all up.

I do have a question, the shock mount plate for the S10 locates the shock so that it just hits the leafsprings and the factory KE30 shock mounts don't align with the U-bolts. Before I hack up the factory shock mounts, does anyone know of a shock mount that will work with the KE30?

coitre20 wrote:I have a KE30 (TE31) and installed a Chevy 10 bolt from a '95 S10 with the 6 degree shims and the torsen out of a 2000 Camaro SS. It wasn't difficult to get the axles converted to the Toyota 4 lug pattern. I sent the axles and drums to Moser and the turnaround time was great. It is cheaper than shortening a rearend, but it is still pricey when you add it all up.

I do have a question, the shock mount plate for the S10 locates the shock so that it just hits the leafsprings and the factory KE30 shock mounts don't align with the U-bolts. Before I hack up the factory shock mounts, does anyone know of a shock mount that will work with the KE30?

Not sure how the KE30 differs from the TE72, but I modified my factory shock mounts for my S-10 axle install. Just opened up the holes for the larger pitch and diameter (from factory 8/10mm to 1/2" I think) U-bolts. The socket is tight on the rear nuts, but they have been working great for several years.

UtahSleeper, I will try to dig something up.

-J

rolla_rage wrote:Hey osrolla,

I found great luck with a rear end pulled from a 2WD S-10 (4WD is wider).

It's referred to as a GM 10 bolt, or 7.5, or 7.6, or it's true dimension, 7.625. There are a ton of factory and aftermarket LSDs available for $200-600 (Gov-lock style is not preferred, and later Torsen could use a higher torque bias for our light cars - I can still single track RH wheel on RH turn hard accel- prob go with Eaton or Auburn) and a used axle alone (with open diff) will go for $150-250. They are super available, used from late 80's to early/mid 2000's. The earlier are 26 spline, later 28 spline.

Best news is the 2WD axles do not need shortened. They are within a half inch or so WMS to WMS.

Spring perches are same pitch as corolla. I think I needed 6deg wedges (off-road truck places sell for $35) to get stub at right angle for my 82 wagon with an EcoTec engine/trans.

Tough part is axle shafts. I assume you'd like to keep the 4x4.5 of corolla and full custom axles are $300-500 I think. I chose to modify the OEs. BTW you cannot weld on them due to high silicon content or something. This is what I did:

Turned outside of axle flange to clear inside of early 90's Nissan Altima disk (which I got from picknpull for $80 with calipers/hoses, these have factory corolla pattern), lasered 1/4" steel plate with undersized holes in corolla pattern and used this to transfer punch the correct pattern on axle flange. Hand drilled pattern through holes on axle flange. Tapped lasered plate and then used this as a sort of nut-plate by running loctited SHCS of factory lug size/pitch (tough to find, Call Parkrose Hardware in Portland OR) through back of drilled axle flange, sandwiching the axle flange it between the head of the bolt and the lasered/threaded plate. Slip rotors over this and you're ready to install the wheels. I lasered custom caliper brackets from 1/2" material and they align the factory Altima caliper very closely - needed a 0.060" shim I believe. I used factory Toy master cylinder and brake feel is great.

-Justin

To help illustrate:

Diff Update: I recently swapped the OE Camaro torsen style posi for an Eaton plate style (19599-010) and the single track issue is gone! Under all acceleration, turning or not, both tires pull. Just to be sure I had the clutch packs shimmed 0.010" on each side. No chatter and no single tracking, just charges out of corners.

Props to Pete's Gear Shop in Hayward, CA for the quick service and helpful advice.

-J