Recently purchased a 32/36 Weber carb from user Teun. It came already bolted onto a 3TC intake manifold but definitely not a US-spec one. Either way I bolted the carburetor and manifold as one piece onto my 3TC and in the process removed all the vac lines and various sensors for the emissions stuff. I got the car to start and it idles, a bit rough but nothing that can't be fixed with tuning. The problem is when I give it throttle the car stalls out. I was told to check the accelerator pump but the diaphragm is good. I don't know if I may have a vac leak or something else is going on. Also not sure if I'm supposed to use my stock fuel setup with this weber carb, should I have to upgrade my fuel pump or get a fuel pressure regulator or should this be a plug and play swap?
This sensor is there with the vac lines deleted, shoudl I plug these up?
These sensors are on my original intake manifold but the one I have the the weber car doesn't even have ports for these sensors.
I have this vac port on the carb which I later hooked up to the distributor advance.
I tried messing with the mixture screw but I see no difference at all. The idle screws seem to be set because when I move them the car wants to stall.
If you click the picture it's a video of the car idling and how it stall out when I give it throttle.
-1992 Mazda MX-3 RS 2005-2012 *REST IN PIECES*
-2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protege #882 2012-2015 SOLD!
-2003 MAZDASPEED Protege #1186 2014-2015 SOLD!
-1980 Toyota Corolla TE72 4-door sedan 2014-present
-2002 Lexus IS 300 2015-present
Everything should be plugged up. Before hooking anything to the distributor also. But it sounds like its choking, are you good on jets? Is gas going in the carb? Just because it idles does not mean thats filling up.
So! Jets, how much fuel in the bowl and everything plugged up. Then get back to me. Webers like the engines to be tidy. So check plugs, cables rotors and cap. Check the timing and make sure its right also. As far as the pump............. some people say its ok to run stock which you can, but if you upgrade why not go all the way. Pumps costs like $20 to $35. If you get the right pump you dont need a regulator.
Before I installed the weber carburetor, it was already running on another 3TC with no problems. My car is completely stock, this is the first mod I've done to it. To be honest I've never tinkered with a carbureted car, so which jets should I be checking and how would I know if they're good or not?
-1992 Mazda MX-3 RS 2005-2012 *REST IN PIECES*
-2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protege #882 2012-2015 SOLD!
-2003 MAZDASPEED Protege #1186 2014-2015 SOLD!
-1980 Toyota Corolla TE72 4-door sedan 2014-present
-2002 Lexus IS 300 2015-present
Well its cool that it was running on another car with no problems. But was the car stock also, did it have a cam or turbo? You have to set the carb to your car. I just watched the video again and think I saw the problem........ (with that shaky camera) It looks like you did not put the ignition wires correctly! Looks like you have the coil cable to the #1 cylinder and the middle wire to the #3 cylinder. Check if Im right.
I don't think that's the case, I could be wrong but here's the picture.
The EGR is still on the car because I don't have a block off plate, would leaving it in place as is affect it? Not sure where else to look or what else to do other than go back to the stock carb but it would be a real pain to hook up all those vac lines again. I know I can get this carburetor to work with the right help.
-1992 Mazda MX-3 RS 2005-2012 *REST IN PIECES*
-2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protege #882 2012-2015 SOLD!
-2003 MAZDASPEED Protege #1186 2014-2015 SOLD!
-1980 Toyota Corolla TE72 4-door sedan 2014-present
-2002 Lexus IS 300 2015-present
What are you crazy!? Go back to 100 wires and stock carb!!!!!! You should not have any vacuum hoses left or plugged to anything. That thing in front of the distributor still has hoses, the other thing next to the water neck still has hoses. PLUG THEM UP! That hose going from the carb to the distributor, plug them. Once everything is plugged and you can keep the engine running, then you figure out what to delete and what does what. Once you take the stock carb out all those hoses become junk. If you dont do this you will never find out if its a leak, the carb or pump.
The other thing I can think of is, you have two metal tubes for gas. One is to get fuel to the carb and the other one is a return line. You are just using one right?
Try that before I go to work, hurry up!
That thing in front of the disty I think is daisy chained to the EGR and they're both already plugged. Hoses off the water neck have also been eliminated because I deleted that sensor for the electrical fan switch (I wanted to knock two mods in one out, weber carb and electric fan). I'll plug everything up and see what happens. I'll also take updated pictures and videos.
Also I only have the fuel send line going to the carb, I don't think there is a return line. Everything was working fine before I swapped carbs, so it's not impossible but I'm just doubtful it's my fuel pump. It's either carb related, intake manifold or vacuum related. That's my best guess.
-1992 Mazda MX-3 RS 2005-2012 *REST IN PIECES*
-2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protege #882 2012-2015 SOLD!
-2003 MAZDASPEED Protege #1186 2014-2015 SOLD!
-1980 Toyota Corolla TE72 4-door sedan 2014-present
-2002 Lexus IS 300 2015-present
The thing is if you think its the carb you have to open it up inspect everything and make sure its clean. If you think its carb related unscrew the top 6 screws from the top of the carb. If you hear pressure when you lift the cover then the float its getting stuck. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN YOU OPEN THE CARB!!!!!!!. The thing that holds the floats is a very thin and small pin. It can come out and lose it very fast. To check this hold it straight like it would sit on the carb, then move the float up. When you let the float go it should just drop as far as it goes. Do this a few times. If it goes half way or does not drop then its getting stuck and you are not getting any fuel in the carb.
While you are there you can check the jets. You can see the numbers of the air jet without removing anything. They sit right on top brass color. Then the gas jets at the bottom of the bowl. Heres the thing, if everything is plugged, the carb is fine, then its your fuel pump.
You made sure your timing is good also right? Maybe thats why it was back firing. Playing with carbs its not that hard, after you are done doing this you will feel like a pro in no time!
In the first video I posted, the backfire was the car stalling.
I opened up the carb and here is what I got:
Plugged up sensor on the block:
I'm really stuck and it's frustrating. The only other thing I did was I removed the disty when I put on the manifold. But there should only be one way to put on the disty right?
Here's a better video of how it sounds. It could be me but it seems like it's sucking in a lot of air, I don't know if it's normal. I only hit the throttle as much as I did because if I would have done more it would have stalled.
-1992 Mazda MX-3 RS 2005-2012 *REST IN PIECES*
-2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protege #882 2012-2015 SOLD!
-2003 MAZDASPEED Protege #1186 2014-2015 SOLD!
-1980 Toyota Corolla TE72 4-door sedan 2014-present
-2002 Lexus IS 300 2015-present
That gas looks very low to me. I still need to know the numbers of the jets, you should see the top ones but you have to take the bottom two out to see them. Next thing it on the carb cover, the big nut its like a 19 inch nut, take it off. There is a fuel filter there. Clean and inspect. Now with the fuel being low, (assuming you already checked the floats and they are not stuck) You can "open" the float more to let more gas in the carb if thats the problem. Just pull the tab that stops the float a bit more so you know more gas is going in.
So, if the timing is right, everything is plugged, no leaks and its not the carb......... Then its the pump.
