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You said you had rims, do they fit hub centricly or do they fit lugcentricly? Every time you put them on it could have a slight imbalance if they don't sit hubcenticly. Get a micrometer and measure the hub the wheels sit on vs the inside of the hub on the wheels.

This should really be under General parts not wheel and tire. Probably have better luck of someone finding it.

Well this would definitely stay me towards keeping the T motor and not swapping something in.

Mine are the same way. If i slowly press the brake in I can go all the way to the floor with no pressure. The rear cylinders leak under slight increases in pressure but will work for the most part when you hit the pedal hard so the brakes only really feel good when I slam on them or preload the drum...

Find a factory one if you can. The haynes and chiltons group too many years and body styles together unless you get an old copy. I was lucky enough to run across a factory chassis manual and factory steering & suspension manual at a used book store. Best manual I've ever used.

I have a 12 inch 1200 cfm fan on mine and don't have any issues. Depending on how much of your radiator core's surface area the fan is covering that could be the issue. I know 3tc cars have a little bit more area than the 2tc cars. I would suggest building a shroud for the fan so it has most if not ...

If you're going to run electric on an engine that isnt heavily modifed I would implement a bypass return if you can as they tend to flow way more than needed and will burn up when they start dead heading all day. Holley Red will be overkill at 97 gph. If your stock pump already incorporates a bypass...

Any pics of the te31 center console?

oldeskewltoy do you know where you can get an adapter for a ford or chevy T5?

I'm gonna agree with boblook about the chain, even if the dizzy was a tooth off it should still show the correct timing relative to the mark on the crank.